Keith McCanse Linked Conservation with Tourism

 Beautiful Ozarks, Lens & Pen Press, See The Ozarks, Uncategorized  No Responses »
Jun 062025
 

1931 issue of Where to go in the Ozarks by Keith McCanse, subtitled “The Book of the Ozarks.” 138 pages chock full of ads. Includes establishments on the new Lake of the Ozarks. Also includes excellent maps. “Outside the realm of ordinary vacation literature, this publication … serves you with actual, definite facts without exaggeration.”

Keith McCanse’s Scotch-Irish family settled in the Ozarks in the 1840s. His father, George, co-founded a bank and was a true believer in Republican politics. He took his son numerous times on the legendary Galena-to-Branson float trip.

After a stint as a stockbroker in Kansas City, Keith moved his family to Taney County due to touchy health issues. He fished and hunted and became active in organizations like the Isaac Walton League dedicated to the preservation of natural resources. In 1921 he became a game warden and gave talks on the value of protecting wildlife. In 1925, Governor Sam A. Baker appointed him commissioner of Missouri’s Game and Fish Department.

Having expertise in accounting and banking he remade the department, appointing more than 100 deputies, and producing movies and appearing on radio advancing the “gospel of conservation.” McCanse transformed the good-ole-boy political sinecure into a meritocracy, staffed by trained biologists. He increased revenue, grew the state park system from four to fourteen, and fish hatcheries from two to seven. Missouri Game & Fish News was expanded and improved. It became the template for the exemplary Missouri Conservationist magazine.

In 1929, lured by an offer that doubled his salary, he took a job with KMDX, St. Louis. He promoted tourism for the Ozarks, linking it to valuing the native landscape and its fauna. He worked with the Ozark Playgrounds Association and began producing a similar travel guide to theirs listing more than 1,000 places to “fish, camp, tour, play, and rest.” The guides cost fifty cents. Even with the support of the Sinclair Automobile Service Corporation and ads from every resort, town, and village in the region or near to it, given the work involved, Where to Go in the Ozarks probably wasn’t profitable.

Like many, McCanse invested in land near Sunrise Beach on the shores of the new Lake of the Ozarks. The crash of 1929 and the Depression caused the tourism industry to go flat for more than a decade.

Keith McCanse ran unsuccessfully for Lieutenant Governor in 1932. He moved to Texas soon after and became involved in real estate promotion and Republican politics. We don’t know the extent of his involvement with conservation after he left Missouri. His role in the creation of a natural image of the Ozarks was significant. He died in 1964.

Vintage Images is a column we provide to River Hills Traveler, a monthly publication.  Lens & Pen Press publishes all-color books on the Ozarks. Our book, “See the Ozarks: The Touristic Image,” showcases many of the primary tourist destinations across the Ozarks. It is available for $22.50 (10% off retail), postage paid. Click on Buy our Books

Bluff Dwellers Cave, Noel

 James Fork of the White, See The Ozarks, Tourism, Uncategorized  No Responses »
May 292025
 

Real photo postcard: “See My Cave:  Bluff Dwellers Cave, Noel, Missouri”

Caves have been inhabited by humans and served as the stage for mythological tales in most cultures, past and present. Bluff Dwellers Cave near Noel, Missouri provided shelter for Native Americans but not the club-bearing Neanderthal pictured in this roadside ad.

Wikipedia’s entry for Bluff Dwellers’ Cave says it was discovered by C. Arthur Browning while checking traps on his family’s land. According to the family, it was a Sunday in April when he felt that telling breeze of cold air indicating a hidden cave. According to the attraction’s website:

In 1925 C. Arthur Browning was checking traps on property his family had owned his whole life when he came across a cool breeze blowing from a limestone outcrop. It was here that Bluff Dwellers Cave was discovered by Mr. Browning when he brought back help. Bob Ford and Bryan Gilmore, employed by the highway department, helped Arthur Browning move loose rock and debris so that he could explore.

Note the mention of the highway department. Highways were being built across southwest Missouri in the 1920s, opening up the possibility of lucrative businesses to serve and entertain the traveling public.

In the mid-20s tourism was “the next big thing,” and many looked to capitalize on it. One of those was John A. Truitt, aka “the Cave Man of the Ozarks.” He had arrived in Noel in 1914, looking for caves to commercialize. His obituary in the Pineville paper stated that “he was employed for a time at “Cave of the Winds” in Colorado. It was there that he heard from tourists of the caves in the Southwest Mo Ozarks.”

“Dad” Truitt was famed for having opened and developed many of the interesting caves of Southwest Missouri and Northwest Arkansas Ozarks, including Ozark Wonder Cave at Elk Springs, Truitt’s Cave and Elk-O-Zar Cave at Lanagan, Bluff Dwellers Cave near Noel and Spanish Treasure Cave south of Sulphur Springs. He has contributed much to the development of this section of the Ozarks for tourists and vacationers.

In a Kansas City Journal, Nov. 13, 1927, profile, “Dad” Truitt claimed to have discovered Bluff Dwellers Cave, that he and he alone felt that telltale cool breeze emanating from the bluff. However, according to the Cave’s records and family history, Arthur Browning was the actual discoverer. “Dad” Truitt only held the contract for managing the touring part of the cave for four years, until 1931.

Bluff Dwellers Cave continues today as an active tourist attraction, still owned and operated by the Browning family.

The Enduring Fascination With Ozark Streams

 Beautiful Ozarks, See The Ozarks, Uncategorized  No Responses »
Apr 222025
 

On the back of this circa 1920, sharp and nicely composed real photo postcard is written in script: “Scene at Sugar Creek, Mo. George watching the fish.” The card is stamped, “O. C. Kuehn, Photo. St. Louis, Mo.”

Oscar C. Kuehn (1877-1949) was an enthusiastic amateur photographer, and an “ardent camera devotee,” who exhibited his characteristically corny posed shots of cute kids and dogs and a gnarled old timer strumming a guitar. This may have been a family snapshot as it has a more authentic look than his more standard posed pictures. He served as president of the St. Louis Camera Club in the 1920s. That he was a well-known amateur photographer in St. Louis leads us to believe this image was taken at the Sugar Creek running through Kirkwood in southwest St. Louis. It shows a typical headwaters Ozarkian stream.

As we all know, the boundaries of the Ozark Plateau have been subject of much discussion. Per Missouri State University Libraries Notes, July 2023: “The boundaries of the Ozark region always have been open to debate and discussion. Most previous maps of the Ozarks tended to use bold, solid lines as a border for the region. The new map uses a hashed line to indicate that the boundaries are a bit murky and fluid.”

By most maps, St. Louis lies just beyond the northeast edge of the Ozarks. However, the more permeable edges of this newest map could include this watershed. Recent news (well, 2018) from the Webster-Kirkwood Times describes it as: “Sugar Creek Valley in Kirkwood has been called a wildflower haven, painters’ paradise and architects’ alley.” And neighborhood residents had organized a “Save Sugar Creek” group to resist development to keep their stream clean.

Start Googling around the internet and you’ll find several other Sugar Creeks in Missouri. One in Adair County, near Kirksville, and of course Big Sugar Creek State Park in McDonald County. Big Sugar Creek is a tributary of the Elk River, whose watershed drains south into the Arkansas River Basin. The state park features a variety of plants and animals that are less common or absent farther into Missouri. Begun in 1992 with 640 acres of land, it now comprises more than 2,000 acres. MDC notes the park is still in development stage, so check their website for more information before heading to it.

Vintage Images is a column we provide to River Hills Traveler, a monthly publication.  Lens & Pen Press publishes all-color books on the Ozarks. Our book, “See the Ozarks: The Touristic Image,” showcases many of the primary tourist destinations across the Ozarks. It is available for $22.50 (10% off retail), postage paid. Click on Buy our Books

Irish Wilderness travels remembered

 Irish Wilderness, Lens & Pen Press, On the Mission and Fifty Years Ago, Uncategorized  No Responses »
Apr 112025
 

Tim Reeves’ grave is in a small, chain-link fenced plot north of Doniphan. Weathering (in 2011) had almost obliterated the lettering, which reads: “Col. Tim Reeves, born Apr 28,1821 Died Mar 10 1885  Separation is our lot. Meeting is our hope.”

This image popped up  from my ‘google pics memory’ bank this morning. Fourteen years ago, on an equally beautiful spring morning as today, we searched out the grave of Timothy Reeves – itinerant preacher whose suspicions of Father Hogan and the Catholic Church were voiced to the early settlers of Oregon and Ripley counties – well before the Civil War. Reeves became a Colonel for the 15th Missouri Cavalry Regiment, “a local southern-sympathizing militia” during the Civil War.  Our chapter “Wars Devastations” in Mystery of the Irish Wilderness carries many more details of the brutal guerrilla warfare in the Ozarks.

This image however calls to mind wonderful days seeking out isolated or abandoned places associated with Father John Joseph Hogan’s Irish settlement, begun with such hope and purpose, scattered and torn by “war’s devastation.”  Still the story echoes in local history to this day and is solidified in a national account by the area’s designation as “The Irish Wilderness.”

FISHING HUMOR OZARKS STYLE

 Beautiful Ozarks, See The Ozarks, Uncategorized  No Responses »
Apr 012025
 

HAPPY APRIL FOOL’S DAY!

This humorous real photo postcard – FISHING FOR ROCK TROUT – seems an appropriate post for April Fool’s Day!

There is considerable writing on this 1910 real photo postcard, but we are left guessing about its exact meaning. Along the top is scribbled in ink, “Uncle Bill Tracy.” More legibly in white is “Davis Phots” inscribed on a beam supporting the bridge behind him. Also, in white along the beam is “OUT OZARKS MTNS Fishing for Rock Trout.” Indeed, the nattily dressed gent has a stick with a line attached dangling down to some stones on the streambank. Other inscriptions are “Fish Point” and “Bate Date May 14th, 1910.” Perhaps these refer to some absurd event known only to Uncle Bill and the photographer. That still leaves us guessing about what stream this is. Without a location or some other information our Google search fell short.

It isn’t surprising there are jokes about Ozark angling. Sport fishing and hunting are pastimes that have the raw material of humor – men engaging in activities of little economic benefit while consuming intoxicating beverages. The Ozarks is famed for the sarcastic, self-effacing humor of its native. The hillbilly persona, drawn from its inhabitants’ lighthearted indifference to propriety, created its pop culture portrayal in the media. Legendary mountaineers may have been indifferent to game laws, but they relished being in nature, were skilled with rod and gun, and were valued guides for urban sportsmen.

Vintage Ozarks is a column we provide to River Hills Traveler monthly magazine. We are Leland and Crystal Payton at Lens & Pen Press, publishers of all-color books on the Ozarks. Our book, “See the Ozarks: The Touristic Image” showcases many of the primary tourist destinations across the Ozarks. It is available for $22.50 (10% off retail), postage paid

LOST HAMLETS OF THE OZARKS PRESERVED ON REAL PHOTO POSTCARDS

 Beautiful Ozarks, See The Ozarks, Uncategorized  No Responses »
Mar 052025
 

The great spring that significantly increases the flow of the Niangua River attracted homesteaders in the 1830s. James and Ann Brice arrived from Illinois and purchased 400 acres and in 1837 constructed a watermill. Other pioneers settled nearby, and a community called Brice was created.

Another millwright, Peter Bennett, built a competing mill at the confluence of the spring branch and the Niangua. Somehow, Bennett’s name became attached to the spring which was then called Brice. Today, the Brice name is known only to historians and preserved in vintage photographs. The only relic of that early settlement is a frame church, which was protectively clad in stone in the 1950s.

Recreationalists have found the setting alluring since before the Civil War. In 1900 the Missouri Fish Commission released 40,000 mountain trout into the branch. Bennett Spring State Park became one of Missouri’s earliest state parks, when the spring and some surrounding land were purchased by the state for that purpose in 1924. Though evidence of its earliest settlement is scant, the park has numerous Arts and Crafts style stone structures, and several handsome bridges built during the Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC).

Twelve miles of hiking trails wind through the wild and rugged surrounding terrain. A hatchery raises both brown and rainbow trout for release. The dawn of opening day of trout season attracts hundreds of anglers, including, often, the current governor. It’s a Missouri tradition. It’s also a spectacle, covered extensively by media.

Vintage Images is a column we provide to River Hills Traveler, a monthly magazine. We are Leland and Crystal Payton at Lens & Pen Press, publishers of all-color books on the Ozarks. “See the Ozarks: The Touristic Image” showcases many of the primary tourist destinations across the Ozarks. It is available for $22.50 (10% off retail), postage paid.

CLARK MOUNTAIN DEVELOPMENT CO. – PIEDMONT CANYON, WAYNE COUNTY

 James Fork of the White, See The Ozarks, Uncategorized  No Responses »
Feb 272025
 

The 1920s saw a surge in optimistic developers vying to attract the leisure class to vacation destinations in the Ozarks. Springfield’s own John T. Woodruff bought an unfinished health resort in Siloam Spring, near the North Fork River, where he built the impressive four-story Pinebrook Inn, a nine-hole golf course, dance pavilion and dug a swimming pool. (More on that story in our book James Fork of the White.)

Across the hills on the eastern side of the Ozarks, entrepreneurs formulated designs for a tourist development of the Clark Mountain Park just north of Piedmont.

Photograph, circa 1925-1930. Through the canyon, McKenzie Creek encounters outcroppings of very hard igneous rock (blue granite), creating a miniature version of the famous Johnson Shut-Ins. The Wayne County Journal-Banner, Sept. 1, 1927, carried an article noting that, “T. J. Elliott has a large force of men and teams at work on the construction of a gravel highway along the south side of the canyon.” We think the folks seen here are either investors or prospective buyers of lots in the development of Clark Mountain Park, just north of Piedmont in Wayne County.

St. Louis businessman Col. Lon Sanders, president of the Clark Mountain Development company, had elaborate designs for the scenic canyon and McKenzie Creek shut-ins. In 1927, 53 lots had been laid out. A water system and electric lights were planned, as well as a 9-hole golf course, tennis courts, and baseball diamond. The company envisioned a low dam on McKenzie Creek to create a 30-acre lake.

Today the canyon is managed by the Missouri Conservation Department as the Lon Sanders Conservation Area. This 130-acre area is intended as a wildlife study, hiking and nature resource. The Department’s brochure notes: “He (Sanders) built small dams, lily pools, flower gardens, shelter houses, and foot paths. He also planted non-native ornamental plants, some of which grow here to this day.” Remnants of Sanders’ small rock dams remain in the creek, creating small waterfalls. His stone steps are incorporated into the hiking trails. The loop trail is about half a mile long.

Fun fact from Wikipedia:

“In August of 2023, to mark the 50th anniversary of alleged unidentified flying object (UFO) sightings in Piedmont, the Missouri General Assembly passed SB139 designating Piedmont and Wayne County as the UFO Capital of Missouri.

Between February and April 1973, residents of Piedmont and the surrounding area witnessed unexplained activity in the sky. Several hundred calls were made to local police, sheriffs and newspapers. The incidents made local headlines and eventually national news outlets began reporting the sightings. Today, the city of Piedmont celebrates this designation every April with its annual UFO Festival.”

Vintage Images are courtesy of Leland and Crystal Payton of Lens & Pen Press, publishers of books on the Ozarks region. James Fork of the White: Transformation of an Ozark River, with more information on regional development, is available for $31.50, postage paid, from www.beautifulozarks.com

COON RIDGE NOVELTY SHOP

 Beautiful Ozarks, See The Ozarks, Uncategorized  No Responses »
May 302024
 

 

The caption of this real photo postcard reads: “Rube St. Clair, Champion Basket Maker of the Ozarks, Coon Ridge Novelty Shop, Ozark Route US 65 … Reeds Spring, Mo.  Con Jock Studio.” This is a sharp, well-fixed image from a photographer/studio we have not encountered before. Unfortunately, a search of newspapers.com did not pull up any ads for the “Con Jock Studio.”

Distinctive souvenirs were produced in the Shepherd of the Hills Country and sold at roadside curio and gift shops like Coon Ridge Novelty Shop in Reeds Springs. This shop was owned by John and Mrs. Wallace. She was a teacher at the Crane school.

The shops were stocked with locally made baskets, wood carvings, wares made of cedar, Harold Horine’s colorful drip-glaze concrete pots, and chenille spreads brought in from the southeastern United States. Some of those once-inexpensive souvenirs now fetch many times their original price.

“You will see the natives all along the highways weaving baskets. This is a very pleasant as well as profitable work, as they sell enough to the tourists, or ‘furners’ as they say, to help them live a ‘right smart while.’ The baskets are made in various shapes and sizes, and mostly of white oak.” Pearl Spurlock, legendary taxi driver, tour guide, and raconteur of the Shepherd of the Hills Country, quoted in See the Ozarks: The Touristic Image.

This image and many others are now in the Payton Collection of Ozarks Memorabilia at the Missouri State University Libraries-Ozarks Studies Institute.

 

Lens & Pen Press books are on sale on our website, postage paid.   See the Ozarks is now priced at $22.50, ppd.

 

Scenes along the Mississippi 1848 and 2017

 Irish Wilderness, Lens & Pen Press, On the Mission and Fifty Years Ago, Uncategorized  No Responses »
Jan 272024
 

Hogan describes the scenery along the river as the tug pulls the clipper ship slowly toward New Orleans, 107 miles distant.

Once I looked out over the ship’s bulwarks and saw we were between what seemed to be two long, low earth-mounds, one on either side of the river; there was a bend in the river at the place. These mounds, on which there were trees and houses and gardens and people, were the first patches of elevated grounds that I saw since the tug took us in tow. I was told they were fortifications or land batteries, Fort St. Philip and Fort Jackson by name, guarding the approach to New Orleans from invasion by sea.

At the end of our day of exploring Passe a Loutre we took time to ride and walk through the remains of the two forts Hogan mentions.

Fort St. Philip on the eastern bank of the Mississippi, is only accessible by boat or helicopter. Despite its deteriorating condition, it was named to the National Register of Historic Places in 1960. “The earthen works fort was established in the 18th century. Fort St. Philip’s major engagements were 10-day naval sieges during the War of 1812 and American Civil War. The site is privately owned and deteriorating. Recent hurricanes like Katrina have added to the damage.” (Wikipedia)

Fort St. Philip is accessible by boat or helicopter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fort Jackson (below) on the west bank, is a historic masonry fort, constructed as a coastal defense of New Orleans, between 1822 and 1832, and it was a battle site during the Civil War. It is now a National Historic Landmark. It was damaged by Hurricanes Katrina and Rita, and its condition is threatened

Since 1970, The grounds of Fort Jackson have been the site of both the Plaquemines Parish Fair and Orange Festival. The fort was used to treat oily birds in the early weeks of the Deepwater Horizon oil spill.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Bishop Hogan recounted his childhood memories and his voyage to America and to the priesthood in Fifty Years Ago: A Memoir, written in 1898 and published in 1907. His second memoir covered his early missionary years on the Missouri frontier, to his consecration as bishop of St. Joseph in 1868.  Our companion volume to Mystery of the Irish Wilderness contains both those memoirs plus additional biographical information I was able to learn from the archives of both the Kansas City-St. Joseph and St. Louis dioceses.

On the Mission in Missouri and Fifty Years Ago: A Memoir is available on our website for 10% off ($22.50), postage paid at www.beautifulozarks.com    Companion volume, Mystery of the Irish Wilderness: Land and Legend of Father John Joseph Hogan’s Lost Irish Colony in the Ozark Wilderness, is also available for $17.00, postpaid.

 

“Alas! No help for me now; I am on the Mississippi, and must go it.”

 Irish Wilderness, On the Mission and Fifty Years Ago, Uncategorized  No Responses »
Jan 202024
 

The Berlin was picked up by aptly named ‘tug’ boats, that tugged it through sandy shallows to the deeper water of the main channel. Then one tug headed back out for another incoming ship and one “began its hard task, towing us up against the current to New Orleans, 107 miles distant.”

My 2017 exploration was a reverse course – downriver from Baton Rouge to meet my guide, Richie Blink (Delta Discovery Tours) at the docks in Venice, where the road ends and we kept on going. Venice is the last community on Highway 23 accessible by automobile, and it is the southern terminus of the Great River Road. This has earned the town the nickname “The end of the world.”

I had explained my purpose and Blink’s recommendation was that we head for Passe A Loutre, the eastward most channel of the “mouths of the Mississippi,” since Hogan’s ship was coming from the Keys.

Put-in ramp at Venice, Louisiana docks. This town on the west bank of the river is truly the “end of the road.” The land road, that is. From here we headed out into the Gulf.

We motored along jungle-green channels where water lilies and elephant ears had invaded (non-native species), to reach the main channel of the river.

There’s nothing like dashed expectations to put a damper on one’s enthusiasm for any endeavor. Hogan was not an exception:

…(T)here was no ebbing or flowing tide, not enough rise of tide to cover a croaking frog; no belt of strand to mark the boundary between land and water, for land and water seemed interlocked and of the amphibious kind—an impenetrable jungle of swamps and bushes, infested with sharks, snakes, and alligators. There was water enough, of the kind it was, but who dare drink of it? Ha! That from the marshes smelt of toads and reptiles; that from the Mississippi suggested a fish trap, for, besides mud, it may have a young alligator in it. And this is America—America indeed. Alas! No help for me now; I am on the Mississippi and must go it.

This ship I am on won’t stop until I get to New Orleans; and if I throw myself overboard and attempt to swim ashore, maybe the alligators or the buzzards will get me. See the miserable, muddy banks, not high enough above water for a drowning rat to dry himself on.

Some views looked the same in 2017 as in 1848:

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Bishop Hogan recounted his childhood memories and his voyage to America and to the priesthood in Fifty Years Ago: A Memoir, written in 1898 and published in 1907. His second memoir covered his early missionary years on the Missouri frontier, to his consecration as bishop of St. Joseph in 1868.  Our companion volume to Mystery of the Irish Wilderness contains both those memoirs plus additional biographical information I was able to learn from the archives of both the Kansas City-St. Joseph and St. Louis dioceses.

On the Mission in Missouri and Fifty Years Ago: A Memoir is available on our website for 10% off ($22.50), postage paid at www.beautifulozarks.com    Companion volume, Mystery of the Irish Wilderness: Land and Legend of Father John Joseph Hogan’s Lost Irish Colony in the Ozark Wilderness, is also available for $17.00, postpaid.

 

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