Jan 022022
 

Brooks Blevins discussing the third volume of his trilogy, A History of the Ozarks, Dec. 13 at The Library Center in Springfield.

Brooks Blevins finds it endlessly fascinating why a modest uplift in the center of America is believed to be the homeland of a race of slack-jawed yokels in spite of compelling demographic evidence it is inhabited by a populace not dissimilar to those of surrounding states. Fans of Dr. Blevins will find in Volume 3 of A History of the Ozarks: The Ozarkers a definitive answer to that paradox and a good guess as to the durability of that region’s hillbilly identity. Given the long literary origins of the trope it seems unlikely associating the Ozark hills with old timey ways will completely die out even though the place is in a rebranding phase.

Professor Blevins is more familiar with popular culture than many historians—and more respectful of its influence. His lively writing style is animated by these cultural conflicts. He points out a year before Alice Walton’s (of Walmart) toney art museum opened, a violent meth film set in the Ozarks premiered: “The fact that the movie Winter’s Bone dominated national perceptions of the Ozarks during the year and a half preceding the opening of Crystal Bridges made the museum’s premiere that much more jarring and its impact on the region’s image that much more transformative … But the twenty-first century has certainly sparked a reimagining of the Ozarks and Ozarkers. It was inevitable that at some point the reality of life in the Ozarks would stray so far from the region’s stubborn image that the dissonance would be impossible to ignore.”

His two earlier volumes are solid reconstructions of the place’s past. Volume 3 brilliantly shows how legend and myth infiltrate our perceptions of the past. Such stereotyping displeases the business community but is a gift to novelists, folklorists, and souvenir makers. The hillbilly was once a tourist icon—and to some degree may still be in spite of greater sensitivity to negative regional profiling. Another reasoned, well researched, and fun read from Missouri State University Professor Blevins.

 

A History of the Ozarks: The Ozarkers is available at the University of Illinois Press or on amazon

 

Oct 102021
 

Club House, Monegaw Springs, real photo postcard by Becraft

Between bank, stage, and train robberies, the Younger Brothers’ gang found refuge and recreation in the rugged hills of the Osage. Grandfather Younger had settled here in the 1840s. Relatives and even former slaves of the family took pride in sheltering the outlaws. Frank and Jesse James on occasion joined the Youngers at the billiard table in the spacious hall of the log hotel at Monegaw Springs. The young men attended dances where they thrilled local girls with stories of their exploits on behalf of the vanquished.

In 1905 the old house and 300 acres were acquired by a group of Kansas City businessmen who created “The Monegaw Club.” The KC headquarters of the club were in the office of Mr. James B. Keister, 706 Bank of Commerce Building. The Henry County Democrat, August. 3, 1905 took several paragraphs from the Kansas City Journal description:

“The old log tavern on the crest of Mount Monegaw, now the property of the club, is one of the historic buildings of St. Clair county. The hotel was built in1854 by Thomas Estes and Harry Davis, both well known in the county at that time and still remembered. The building was originally intended for a hotel and since its erection has been conducted as such, with the exception of a short period during the war.

A fifteen foot veranda has been built around the old log hotel, which is being remodeled, retaining as much as possible its original rustic features—An up-to-date café and grill room will be one of the attractions at the club; other modern conveniences will be introduced. A pumping system, which required some skilled engineering, has been installed, and for the first time in the history of this ancient resort, the sulpher water is being pumped to the top of Monegaw hill. A bathhouse with sulpher plunge, sulpher baths, vapor baths and mud baths will be maintained.”

At the time it was built, the log hotel was said to be the largest log structure west of the Mississippi. Kansans burned the town during the Civil War, but spared the hotel. The old log hotel burned in 1926.

 

From Damming the Osage: The Conflicted Story of Lake of the Ozarks and Truman Reservoir. Lens & Pen Press is having a half price sale for all titles. Damming the Osage is now available on our website at www.dammingtheosage.com for $17.50 (half the original price of $35), postage paid.

Sep 192021
 

The Greenfield & Northern: A Southwest Missouri Shortline Railroad has accumulated memories, maps, photographs, and official documents about the bold capitalist effort to encourage the development of an interesting but somewhat somnambulant section of Missouri. This geographic region transitions from the hilly, rocky Ozarks to the plains that extend to the eastern slope of the Rockies. It has more agricultural promise than the true Ozarks. In the late 19th century diligent efforts were made to grow small trading communities into real town. Such town-growing activities required a railroad. The author, Larry Murphy, assisted by his son, R. King Murphy, has written an intriguing saga of the phenomenal energies expended connecting these little towns with the outside world.

Back cover, The Greenfield & Northern. The couple in the center are Thomas A. Miller and his wife, Clara Belle (Jopes). Miller was known for many things besides the railroad – his lumber businesses, the town named for him, construction of the courthouse and Aurora’s Franklin school, and his public service in Aurora.
Photo from Aurora Centennial. “Wedding day picture of Mr. and Mrs. Tom Miller.”

The saga of the iron horse is dramatic, and too often filled with miscalculations of need. There were rail projects that were never completed even after financing had been secured. Bonds for such projects were left to be paid by unhappy investors. Eventually trucks and automobiles cut into the services once supplied by railroads. Missouri rail lines peaked in 1920 at 8,117 miles. By 2017, there were only 3,862 miles—103 miles less than in 1880. Some short lines became integrated into major lines. Many had their rails pulled and were abandoned to many years later be occasionally repurposed as hiking trails—“Rails to Trails” program.

South Greenfield depots on right; Sanborn Insurance maps of S. Greenfield in 1892 and 1920

The senior Murphy has a poignant recollection: “One of my favorite memories of growing up in Greenfield, MO (population 1,353) was going to see the Frisco local come into Greenfield from the Kansas City-Springfield-Memphis main line at south Greenfield. This would have been about 1941. I would hear the train whistle for the U. S. 160 crossing south of town near the “Southern Club” and immediately would call Grandad, Porter Murphy, to come get me so we could go see the train. “

Murphy goes on to report that even at 4 years old, he knew the track was “in deplorable condition.” Trains didn’t turn out to be the agents of development town leaders and developers imagined but they certainly were a spectacle in the context of the limited entertainments available in these villages.

Railroad tracks in Dade County, south of Greenfield. On the left is the site of an engine derailment about 1940. On the right, a 3.6% grade was too much for an overloaded G&N train. Fortunately, no derailment, just a slow slide back to the depot.

Larry Murphy’s memories of his father and grandfather are woven into his recollection of the railroad: “All of this, my granddad’s interest in taking me to the train, his stories of the old Greenfield& Northern, his interest in my interest in trains, railroads and mining all made for some wonderful memories and the basis for some additional stories.”

Long after these ultimately uneconomic ventures fail, locals remember not only the spectacle of these monster moving pieces of iron, but they recall the individuals who crewed them and manned the depots.  Probably Larry Murphy is not the only citizen who has passed on an affection for railroads long gone. Larry’s son R. King Murphy wrote a short story called “The Ritual” printed in the June 16, 1994, Vedette. Wrote the son: “I have often wished I could have been there with them as the steam-powered mechanical marvels of a bygone era plied the high iron.”

Two pictures of BNSF switching a number of hoppers at Pennington Seed in Greenfield.

A number of first-hand accounts exist of the effect of rail transportation and of course the inevitable and memorable train wrecks. An amazing number of photographs were taken of the old-time trains and Murphy has numerous maps that explain the towns the line connected. The Greenfield & Northern has vanished but is not forgotten as this book shows.

The book is available for $20 postage paid from Larry Murphy (larrymurf37@gmail.com), 2895 Claflin RD., Suite 200, Manhattan, KS 66502. (785-477-0517)

The Murphys are at work on another book on the Kansas City, Clinton, and Springfield railroad.

These intimate local histories are valuable because they preserve not only the raw facts—dates, places, economic implications, but the mythos of our romance with technology. Generously, the Murphys have donated copies to regional libraries.

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Lens & Pen Press is having a half price sale for all titles. Visit our store at www.dammingtheosage.com to see the selection. Sale is 50% off original price, postage paid.

Jul 142021
 

When the Civil War ended, Billy Griffin mustered out of Gen. Marmaduke’s Confederate forces at Batesville, Arkansas, and returned to the Current River area. There he found the community of Irish scattered. His parents had held on but few others. Billy moved his parents to Ironton, but he returned to the area near Wilderness where he lived the rest of his life. Few of the other original settlers ever returned.

In 1868, Billy married Mary Ann Snider, widow of Samuel Cusic Snider and ten years Billy’s senior. Billy and Mary Ann Snider Griffin had three children, Mary Catherine (b. 1869, married name Mrs. Harvey Smith, of Fremont) and Patrick (b. 1871) and John Ruben (b. 1873). The only reference I’ve seen to the two daughters Mary Ann Snider brought into the marriage is in his obituary: “He is also survived by two step-daughters, Mrs. Cusic Brown of Dry Valley, and Mrs. Sarah Hanners of Rockford, Wash., to whom he was a kind and affectionate father.”

The article about their aging cabin made passing mention of the Irish Wilderness: “The Griffins and their neighbors had to travel many miles to mill with their wheat and corn. They went to the mill at Falling Springs or across the Irish Wilderness to Turner’s Mill on Eleven Point River.”

The article continued: “In 1885, the Frisco railroad built the Current River Branch road to Grandin from Willow Springs (see our post on lumber industry in the Wilderness) and the track ran through the Griffin farm on Pine Creek. The logging industry had come into the Ozarks and saw mills sprang up and the pine forests were stripped from the hills of Carter County around the old house.”

Billy Griffin became the source of knowledge about the early settlement for local historians and the curious. The Current Local newspaper in Van Buren interviewed him. Billy gave a detailed account of how the little settlement was created, their trials and difficulties, joys and romances.

But they were happy, those simple people. Happy and industrious in their wilderness. On the Sabbath they had religious services and the monotony of life in the woods was broken by merry making in their cabins. Into their life there came romances and there came sorrow. The young priest was called on to marry the young and to bury the dead. Faithfully he stood by them, cheerfully he encouraged them.

A few years later the sorrows of the civil war … found its way out into that wilderness and the little crops of those simple people were ruthlessly taken and their livestock driven away by skallawags who took advantage of the deplorable conditions of the time. … And the country that had begun to smile under their industrious efforts once more became a wilderness.

This story was told to the editor of Community a number of years ago by “Uncle Billy” Griffin, a respected citizen of Carter County, the last survivor of those colonists. To the writer it seemed a pathetic story and the pathos was all the greater when Uncle Billy said: ‘We came to America, fleeing from persecutions in Ireland. We came far out into the wilderness to make our homes. It was hard for us to understand why Americans, who had always stood for us as the greatest exponents of justice and chivalry, should have robbed us of our homes and our happiness.’

Billy’s two siblings, Thomas and Catherine, lived in the Pilot Knob area. Julia Billingsley shared that Thomas never married; Catherine married David Gunton and had two children who did not marry so the Griffin line continued through Billy.

Billy Griffin died January 4, 1918 at the Alexian Brothers’ Hospital in St. Louis. Blood poisoning was listed as the cause of death. His obituary in the Van Buren newspaper noted, “For fifty years Mr.Griffin was one of the foremost citizens of this section of the country. … Perhaps no man in this section had more friends than ‘Uncle Bill’ Griffin. … He was an honorable gentleman of strong convictions. … He will be greatly missed.”

Billy, Thomas, Catherine and her children, Emmet and Julia, are buried in Pilot Knob Catholic Cemetery – an unmarked cemetery on Middlebrook Road near Ironton. Elizabeth, Billy’s mother is buried in Middlebrook Cemetery about two miles north.

Lens & Pen Press is having a warehouse sale and offering all titles for half price, postage paid.

Mystery of the Irish Wilderness: Land and Legend of Father John Joseph Hogan’s Lost Irish Colony in the Ozark Wilderness  and On the Mission in Missouri are available on amazon.com or discounted 50 percent on this website, postage paid.

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Apr 132021
 

1909 Construction photograph of Lock and Dam No. 1

In 1886, an Osage River Improvement Committee convened and, using Army Engineers plans, challenged Congress to make the river navigable clear to Kansas with a series of locks and dams. After delays, work on the first lock and dam began in September 1895 at Shipley Shoals then seven miles from the mouth of the Osage.

The pièce de résistance of the futile effort to render the Osage River navigable was Lock and Dam No. 1. In the twentieth century, Army Engineers became renowned for escalating the price of a dam after Congressional authorization and work had started. Underestimating construction costs has long been a skill of the Corps.

In 1891, Lock and Dam No. 1 was estimated to cost $187,244. By 1895, with the addition of Chanoine wickets to raise and lower water levels to keep from flooding farms upstream, a figure of $417,500 appeared in War Department documents. As this 1909 photograph shows, the project obviously took longer and cost more than had been stated in Corps of Engineers’ reports to Congress.

The impressive hunk of concrete and iron, 850 feet wide with a 40 by 220 foot lock, proved to be a mixed blessing. Upon completion in 1906, a 30-foot section washed away. The structure blocked barges, which were the most cost-effective river transportation.

In 2012, a drought lowered Osage River levels so much that the rotten remains of Lock & Dam No. 1 were exposed for all to see. Today it not only serves to block possible sturgeon and paddlefish migration to Osage River spawning beds, but every year or two someone drowns trying to navigate through it in high water.

 

From Damming the Osage: The Conflicted Story of Lake of the Ozarks and Truman Reservoir. Lens & Pen Press is having a half price sale for all titles. Damming the Osage is now available on our website at www.dammingtheosage.com for $17.50 (half the original price of $35), postage paid.

 

Mar 232021
 

Photo by Becraft, Osceola, MO. 68 Pounds #25

On the first page of the first chapter in Damming the Osage, we wrote:

After being the subject of the real photo postcard, this sixty-eight-pound blue catfish likely became the blue plate special at an Osceola, Missouri café. Though not uncommon in the Osage River, big fish were newsworthy. Several hundred miles downstream and a decade earlier another huge catfish (a blue or a flathead) made the June 1, 1895, Jefferson City Daily Tribune:

News has just been received here of the strange manner in which John Harnett an Osage River fisherman, lost his life by being drowned by a catfish weighing 105 pounds. No one witnessed the death struggle which occurred some twenty-five miles up the river, but the finding of Harnett’s body, a trot-line and the live fish attached thereto some hours after he was missed tells the story of how he lost his life. He had wrapped one end of the line around his hand and been jerked in the river and drowned by the struggles of the fish to free itself.”

This was a true Osage river monster cat, so big the men holding the staff supporting it had to stand on boxes to keep the tail off the ground. Times and the river’s ecology have changed.  The most recent headline-grabbing hefty fish pulled from the Osage was a 112-pound invasive black carp.

 

From Damming the Osage: The Conflicted Story of Lake of the Ozarks and Truman Reservoir. Lens & Pen Press is having a half price sale for all titles. Damming the Osage is now available on our website at www.dammingtheosage.com/buy-the-book/ for $17.50 (half the original price of $35), postage paid.

Feb 182021
 

Real photo postcard marked, “Osage River” and “Becraft Photog. (21).”

What in the world is that ball on a stick  doing in the middle of the Osage River, poking up from the bottom of this real photo postcard?

This enigmatic view is postmarked “Monegaw Springs Aug. 23, 1907.” It was addressed to Miss Mary Mifflin Kansas City, Mo: “Dear Sister, this is a splendid picture of the Osage. Having a royal good time. Am rather used to the strange country ways by now … lovingly, Edna.” “Strange country” indeed—what IS that ball on a stick?

Did surrealism, the art of incongruous imagery, hit the Ozarks a decade before the term was even coined in Paris? If you’ve got any idea what that ball and stick are please let us know at lensandpen@yahoo.com

We have half a dozen Becraft real photo postcards, mostly of Osceola and the upriver spa, Monegaw Springs. In our book Damming the Osage, we used a wonderful image of his showing a 68 lb. blue cat proudly displayed by two men and a boy on the streets of that old river town.

NOTE: In 1905 a group of Kansas City businessmen acquired the old Monegaw log hotel (once a favorite haunt of the James and Younger brothers while laying low from the law) and began development of a resort on the Osage. It’s entirely possible Miss Edna was a guest at the Monegaw Club.  Watch for a future post on the post-outlaw life of the old hotel in Monegaw.

Several Lens & Pen Press books discuss the evolution of the Ozark landscape and our effects on its rivers. Check out Damming the Osage which has an extended explanation of Monegaw Springs and its outlaw history. All our books are now on sale for half price, postage paid. Order on www.dammingtheosage.com

Nov 142020
 

The holiday season is upon us all and BOOKS MAKE SPLENDID GIFTS!

We are pleased to offer a 50% discount on our current inventory with free shipping.
Click here to visit our storefront to order now.

Lover’s Leap Legends Price now: $17.50
James Fork of the White Price now: $17.50
Damming the Osage: Price now: $17.50
Mystery of the Irish Wilderness: Price now: $9.95
On the Mission in Missouri Price now: $10.50
The Beautiful and Enduring Ozarks Price now: $9.95
See the Ozarks: The Touristic Image Price now: $12.50

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Send check orders to:
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Springfield, MO 65807

Nov 102020
 

On the front of the card is written “Scene in the Ozarks.” On the back is printed “Photo by Ayers, Neosho, Mo.”

On the cliff wall along a dirt road running along an unnamed Ozark river has been painted “Chesterfield Cigarettes.” At the end of the dirt road, you can barely make out an iron bridge spanning the river. Commercial graffiti like this is uncommon. Billboards sprang up in the 1930s along well-traveled highways but weren’t the kind of strenuous objections to debasing scenic views as there was back East. Occasionally, letters to the editor raised esthetic concerns but in New England states anti-billboard forces have gone farther, getting severe restrictions on outdoor advertising. The Federal Highway Beautification Act required states to maintain “effective control” of outdoor advertising, but even these rules are less restrictive than the regulations of Vermont and New Hampshire. Today, cliff faces like this are more likely to display spray-painted bad art and obscenities than product advertising.

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Lens & Pen books are available on this website, on amazon.com and at Barnes & Noble. You can see sample pages of our most recent book, Lover’s Leap Legends: From Sappho of Lesbos to Wah-Wah-Tee of Waco, on our website: hypercommon.com.

Lover’s Leap Legends won the bronze medal in the popular culture division of the 2020 Independent Publishers’ Book Awards, an international competition. This year there were entries from forty-four states, seven Canadian provinces and fifteen other countries.

James Fork of the White: Transformation of an Ozark River was a finalist in Regional Non-fiction in the 2019 Indie Book Awards. Lens & Pen Press’s earlier river book, Damming the Osage: The Conflicted Story of Lake of the Ozarks and Truman Reservoir, was awarded a silver medal by the Independent Publishers’ Book Awards in 2013.)

Oct 062020
 

Garber was a “flag stop” on the Missouri Pacific line, not far from Branson. The train would stop when there were railroad ties to pick up or deliveries for the post office, which also sold groceries, patent medicine, and tobacco. Old Matt and Aunt Molly (the Rosses) welcomed tourists and would sign postcards and entertain them with stories of the old days in the White River hills, even though they were themselves relatively recent arrivals themselves from back East.

This extremely sharp real photo postcard, circa 1918, has an X over the man with a hat and goatee on the far right. On the back is typed, “I saw Uncle Ike as we passed on the train He is exactly as this picture shows him. Near here is the wonderful cave, but something like 15 or 20 miles from Hollister.” The man with the X is not Uncle Ike in Harold Bell Wright’s novel. Across the front of the store is painted, “J.K. Ross General Store.”

The man on the porch with the X above him is in fact J. K. Ross, who was reputed to be Harold Bell Wright’s model for the title character of his melodramatic novel, which launched tourism in the Branson area. Uncle Ike, a minor character in the book, was said to be based on Levi Morrell, who also was accessible to tourists at his post office at Notch, about five miles from Garber. Levi was stockier than J.K. Ross and had a full beard. Wright spent seven summers in the Branson area but denied that he had explicitly based any characters on locals. Both Ross and Morrell, and many other locals, claimed the book’s characters as their own and enjoyed the notoriety. Many of their graves have both their Christian and their fictional names engraved on their tombstones.

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Lens & Pen books are available on this website, on amazon.com and at Barnes & Noble. You can see sample pages of our most recent book, Lover’s Leap Legends: From Sappho of Lesbos to Wah-Wah-Tee of Waco, on our website: hypercommon.com.

Lover’s Leap Legends won the bronze medal in the popular culture division of the 2020 Independent Publishers’ Book Awards, an international competition. This year there were entries from forty-four states, seven Canadian provinces and fifteen other countries.

James Fork of the White: Transformation of an Ozark River was a finalist in Regional Non-fiction in the 2019 Indie Book Awards. Lens & Pen Press’s earlier river book, Damming the Osage: The Conflicted Story of Lake of the Ozarks and Truman Reservoir, was awarded a silver medal by the Independent Publishers’ Book Awards in 2013.)