Jul 082019
 

Stereo card stamped G.W. Sittler, 1880s.

Penciled on the back is the title, “Dinner time on the James.” Presumably this was an informal outing of family and friends, even though it appears to be winter.

Many real photo postcards, but few stereo cards of Ozarks scenes show up in antique shows or online. George Sittler had a thriving commercial photography studio in Springfield until his death in 1887. A story in the Wichita Eagle (September 24, 1887) recounted the circumstances of his demise under the headline “Death From A Trivial Cause.” In part the article read: “Visiting Perry Cave, (Percy’s Cave?) which had been newly illuminated with electric lights, the photographer collided against a stalactite, inflicting a bruise to which little attention was paid.” The next day, he passed out and died from the contusion.

Sittler’s widow Lizzie, also a photographer, continued to operate the studio.

James Fork of the White and all our books are available on this website, on amazon.com and at Barnes & Noble. We’ll let you know when Lover’s Leap Legends is published

Jun 222019
 

We are excited to announce that James Fork of the White: Transformation of an Ozark River has earned national recognition! We recently received notice that our book is a finalist in the Regional Non-Fiction category of the 2019 Next Generation Indie Book Awards, the world’s largest not-for-profit book award program for independent publishers. These awards are judged by leaders of the book publishing industry including many with long careers at major publishing houses.

 

 

 

 

 

James Fork of the White’s 352 pages describe a celebrated Ozark float stream, which has endured challenges as Springfield, Missouri, the largest city in the Ozarks, is within its watershed. Research for this book included  exploration along back roads, feeder creeks, mill sites, fishing hot spots and flating past towering bluffs. The James is a classic Ozark stream that just happens to course through a major metropolitan area. Lessons learned along its length and through its watershed will apply to other streams as they too face the pressures of increased usage.

Even though transformed and changing, the James is in many places still scenic; where it lacks wilderness esthetics, its history remains intriguing.

Leland and I have collaborated on a dozen books on the Ozarks or pop culture. Our earlier river book, Damming the Osage: The Conflicted Story of Lake of the Ozarks and Truman Reservoir, was awarded a silver medal by the Independent Publishers’ Book Awards in 2013.

Our next book, Lover’s Leap Legends: From Sappho of Lesbos to Wah-Wah-Tee of Waco, will be published in February 2020. For the past three years, we have delved deeply into a remarkable sub-genre of legend and lore (“fakelore” some call it) tracing the source of the apocryphal stories attached to some of our most scenic landscape. In 352 pages with hundreds of color images (contemporary photographs as well as vintage images), we track these tales across America and to far flung precipices from Guam to Spain and points in between.

James Fork of the White and all our books are available on this website, on amazon.com and at Barnes & Noble. We’ll let you know when Lover’s Leap Legends is published

Jun 052019
 

Real photo postcard by Galena photographer, D. F. Fox.

Gentry Cave, a remote cave—on private land and hard to get to—three miles south of Galena in Stone County, was described by Louella Agnes Owen in Cave Regions of the Ozarks and Black Hills (1898). Hiking through the woods after the mail coach’s wheel broke, the intrepid lady cave explorer found the “broken” landscape captivating:

“The topography was . . . very beautiful with the dense forest lighted by the slanting yellow rays of the afternoon sun. The way leads up to the “ridge road” which is at length abandoned for no road at all and descending through the forest, more than half the distance down to the James River flowing at the base of the hill, we come suddenly in view of the cave entrance, which is probably one of the most magnificent pieces of natural architecture ever seen.”

From James Fork of the White: “She found the cave interior worth the walk but does not mention the abundance of bat guano that would later provide the basis for an unusual industry. During the lean Depression years, one C. L. Weekly and two hires shoveled tons of dried bat manure into hundred-pound bags and shipped it off to be used for greenhouse fertilizer. He got $35 a ton. “

The commercial exploitation of bat guano was also the first impetus for the development of Marvel Cave, which became the centerpiece of a much later tourist attraction in Stone County—Silver Dollar City.

In Caves of Missouri (1956), J Harlan Bretz discusses Gentry Cave’s geology: “A rock shelter at Camp Ramona, 85 feet below cliff top and 50 feet above James River contains four of the five entrances to this joint-controlled cave system. Words are useless in describing the detailed interaction of passages; the cave pattern is too complicated. … One place in the cave showed cherty gravel, but there is no other evidence for vadose occupation of this splendid phreatic cave system. No red clay remnants and very little dripstone were seen anywhere in the cave.”

Lens & Pen books are available on this website, on amazon.com and at Barnes & Noble.

May 102019
 

Lake Expo recently published an interesting article on three invasive species that could have a drastic effect on Lake of the Ozarks. “Lake Invaders! 3 Species That Lurk Nearby and How We can Protect Lake of the Ozarks” specifically points out a plant, a mussell and a fish and describes clearly what threat they pose to the native species and the new evnironment they find themselves in.

  • Hydrilla is an invasive plant from areas around India.
  • Zebra Mussels are native to Europe and Asia, but arrived in North American waterways in the 1980s.
  • Silver Carp are one of several Asian carp species in the state, are notorious for their unusual behavior when they get startled. They jump out of the water.

Read the whole story of how Lake of the Ozarks was created in Damming the Osage.  All Lens & Pen books are available on this site, at Barnes & Noble, and on amazon.com

 

 

May 082019
 

Promotional postcard with handwritten message. Postmarked “Galena Mar 1 10 AM 1910”

We recently acquired this gem of an image of summer play a century ago at Camp Clark in Galena (not the Missouri National Guard base near Nevada!). It is addressed to Miss Nettie M. McComb, Lamar, Mo who apparently had vacationed the previous year at Camp Clark. Rather than pay for a real photo postcard from local photographer George Hall, the owners pasted a snapshot on a blank Postal Card and handwrote their ‘pitch’ to customers from the preceding summer:

“Feb 28, 1910. Dear Friend: We remember how well you enjoyed your outing with us last year so we send you this card to remind you of Camp Clark, trusting that it will stimulate you to get up a party of your friends and come down and camp with us again this year. Your friends, Mr. or Mrs. A.L. McQuary”

A June 1913 newspaper ad for the “well known Camp Clark” assured readers: “Only people of good morals are accepted. It is a beautiful mountain camp on the James river, with pure air, grand scenery and fine spring water. A fine place for ladies to boat, bathe, fish and recreate.” All the Galena resorts pitched the idea that women were welcome—camping, fishing and floating were not male-only, stag affairs.

Dr. A. L. McQuary, former traveling evangelist who also prescribed eyeglasses, owned the resort, consisting of a set of bungalows and tents on a hill overlooking the James. He had been a farmer, run a saddlery business, and within a few years of moving to Galena in 1908, became the county collector.

 

Lens & Pen books are available on this website, on amazon.com and at Barnes & Noble.

Apr 212019
 

As Cole County, home of our state capitol, and the state of Missouri approach their 200th year, the Jefferson City News Tribune (April 21) has posted an interesting article about the origins of our state capitol and Cole County.

Steel engraving of Missouri’s second capitol from an 1852 Meyers’ Universum, published in Germany. (and page 292, Damming the Osage)

As part of the congressional legislation to establish Missouri as a state, a commission was created to find a suitable site for the State Capital. Jesse Boone of Montgomery County, John White of Pike County, Robert Watson of New Madrid, and John Thornton of Howard County were appointed commissioners to locate this site. With the Missouri River running across the center of the state, this was the most logical choice, and the commission was directed to choose a site within 40 miles of the mouth of the Osage River. Since rivers were the maritime highways to get across Missouri, this made the most sense.

In Damming the Osage, we delved briefly into the role that river played in the establishment of the newly carved out state of Missouri and the creation of its capitol. See our earlier blog post on the subject as well.

Apr 092019
 

Real photo postcard. Postmarked Jul 2, 1929

This is a relatively late real photo postcard. By the late 1920s much less detailed printed postcards had begun to usurp the market of the more detailed real photo cards, to the disbenefit of local photographers who produced the real photo cards in their darkrooms.

Meramec Springs, six miles from St. James, Missouri, in Phelps County, has the seventh largest flow of Missouri springs. The average from 1922-1929 listed in The Large Springs of Missouri (1944) was 96,300,000. Both its beauty and historical utilization make it a popular park today. Like many of Missouri’s major springs it was preserved as a state park after earlier industrial utilization. Today’s peaceful setting is a stark contrast to the industrial beehive that once operated here. The spring was dammed to provide waterpower for the extraction of iron ore from hematite. Relics of the iron works active from 1826-1877 are park features. That nature can be restored in this way is hopeful. Missouri State Parks, a Division of the Department of Natural Resources, has been a national leader in acquiring and protecting exquisite natural resources like these great springs.

“The clear water bubbling from the basic and rushing over the falls, under an arch bridge, and down the spring branch, adds to the picturesque charm of the valley and its surrounding wooded hills … At times during the period 1826 to 1877, water power was developed at the spring to serve the Meramec iron works which exploited a deposit of hematite iron ore that had been found at the surface about a half mile west of the spring. … The ruins of the old blast furnace and the remains of the chimneys of the forest still stand in a broad, shaded park beside the spring branch. Picknickers and visitors to the spring enjoy the beautiful natural setting which surrounds these vestiges of one of Missouri’s early mining communicates.”

The Large Springs of Missouri by H. C. Beckman and N. S. Hinchey, 1944

Lens & Pen books are available on this website, on amazon.com and at Barnes & Noble.

Mar 282019
 

My Irish Wilderness Google alerts delivered to my inbox an article about the recent meeting of the Oregon County Historical Society in Thayer.  Members discussed “Ozarks Outlaws and Gangsters.”

“Vice President Mike Crawford discussed property in the Irish Wilderness that was rumored to have been visited and traveled through by Jesse and Frank James.”

Yes, “The Irish” remains to this day a place of mystery, curiosity, and respite from the modern world!

Lens & Pen books are available on this website, on amazon.com and at Barnes & Noble.

Mar 242019
 

In recognition of everyone’s favorite saint–Patrick, the March issue of Rural Missouri carries a full page article (note – a full page in Rural Missouri is a big page at 10 x 14″) on “The Mysterious Irish Wilderness.” Jim McCarty weaves together the known history of its origin, its inclusion in the National Wilderness system in 1984, with a useful guide to trails for today’s hikers and campers. Jim also includes a list of all of Missouri’s designated wilderness areas (8 in all including “The Irish”) – from the smallest, Rock Pile Mountain in the St. Francois Mountains to the largest, Hercules-Glades in southwest Misosuri.

Mar 192019
 

A couple of years ago our constant search for Ozarks-related antique ephemera turned up a rare graphic poster for the Missouri Lumber and Mining Company. Condition was a little rough with chipped edges and creases, but the graphics are strong and the subject is hard to find. This was exciting! Much of the chapter, “Paradise: Lost, Repossessed and Regained,” in Mystery of the Irish Wilderness about the lumbering industry in the Ozarks after the Civil War, was based on a 47-page article in American Lumberman (1903) recounting the history of this very company.

The company was incorporated by Elijah Bishop Grandin and a few Pennsylvania oilman friends in 1880 with the specific goal of monetizing (to put it in contemporary terms) the yellow pine forest of southeast Missouri. They came to cut, saw and ship out the boards to build the burgeoning cities and towns in the expanding post-Civil War economy. To manage the ambitious enterprise, Grandin hired 24-year-old John Barber White, “to work out his plans and to found a commercial commonwealth.”

Most employees came from out of state. Many had experience in the northern white pine mills. Some locals worked in the woods, but usually on a contract basis. Had Hogan’s Irish immigrants somehow endured the war, it’s likely many would have been hired.

The first mill proved too small for the volume of logs they were cutting, so a larger one was built.

“The new mill was built at Grandin, Mo., ten miles southwest of the small mill … This mill was built in 1887 and 1888 at a small, deep spring lake, a valuable natural mill site in the heart of the great pinery.” By 1894, the new sawmill ran night and day, producing a daily average of 180,000 board feet, and was said to be the largest in the United States.

American Lumberman (1903)

The town of Grandin, named of course for E.B. Grandin, was built to provide goods and services to the company and its workers. “Every business in Grandin, except a barbershop and an undertaker, was owned by the corporation. All but the hotel turned a profit. When important customers came to tour the facilities they stayed free of charge. … The company built Catholic, Baptist, Methodist and Congregational churches for the workers. Unattended, the Catholic church became the library.” (MIW, page 92-93)

Looking at the remains of Grandin today, now virtually abandoned, it’s hard to imagine the bustling little burg at the height of its population and economic activity.