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Oct 102021
 

Club House, Monegaw Springs, real photo postcard by Becraft

Between bank, stage, and train robberies, the Younger Brothers’ gang found refuge and recreation in the rugged hills of the Osage. Grandfather Younger had settled here in the 1840s. Relatives and even former slaves of the family took pride in sheltering the outlaws. Frank and Jesse James on occasion joined the Youngers at the billiard table in the spacious hall of the log hotel at Monegaw Springs. The young men attended dances where they thrilled local girls with stories of their exploits on behalf of the vanquished.

In 1905 the old house and 300 acres were acquired by a group of Kansas City businessmen who created “The Monegaw Club.” The KC headquarters of the club were in the office of Mr. James B. Keister, 706 Bank of Commerce Building. The Henry County Democrat, August. 3, 1905 took several paragraphs from the Kansas City Journal description:

“The old log tavern on the crest of Mount Monegaw, now the property of the club, is one of the historic buildings of St. Clair county. The hotel was built in1854 by Thomas Estes and Harry Davis, both well known in the county at that time and still remembered. The building was originally intended for a hotel and since its erection has been conducted as such, with the exception of a short period during the war.

A fifteen foot veranda has been built around the old log hotel, which is being remodeled, retaining as much as possible its original rustic features—An up-to-date café and grill room will be one of the attractions at the club; other modern conveniences will be introduced. A pumping system, which required some skilled engineering, has been installed, and for the first time in the history of this ancient resort, the sulpher water is being pumped to the top of Monegaw hill. A bathhouse with sulpher plunge, sulpher baths, vapor baths and mud baths will be maintained.”

At the time it was built, the log hotel was said to be the largest log structure west of the Mississippi. Kansans burned the town during the Civil War, but spared the hotel. The old log hotel burned in 1926.

 

From Damming the Osage: The Conflicted Story of Lake of the Ozarks and Truman Reservoir. Lens & Pen Press is having a half price sale for all titles. Damming the Osage is now available on our website at www.dammingtheosage.com for $17.50 (half the original price of $35), postage paid.

Sep 252021
 

Lens & Pen Press is having a half price sale on all inventory. All titles now available on our website at www.dammingtheosage.com for half the original price, postage paid.

Sep 192021
 

The Greenfield & Northern: A Southwest Missouri Shortline Railroad has accumulated memories, maps, photographs, and official documents about the bold capitalist effort to encourage the development of an interesting but somewhat somnambulant section of Missouri. This geographic region transitions from the hilly, rocky Ozarks to the plains that extend to the eastern slope of the Rockies. It has more agricultural promise than the true Ozarks. In the late 19th century diligent efforts were made to grow small trading communities into real town. Such town-growing activities required a railroad. The author, Larry Murphy, assisted by his son, R. King Murphy, has written an intriguing saga of the phenomenal energies expended connecting these little towns with the outside world.

Back cover, The Greenfield & Northern. The couple in the center are Thomas A. Miller and his wife, Clara Belle (Jopes). Miller was known for many things besides the railroad – his lumber businesses, the town named for him, construction of the courthouse and Aurora’s Franklin school, and his public service in Aurora.
Photo from Aurora Centennial. “Wedding day picture of Mr. and Mrs. Tom Miller.”

The saga of the iron horse is dramatic, and too often filled with miscalculations of need. There were rail projects that were never completed even after financing had been secured. Bonds for such projects were left to be paid by unhappy investors. Eventually trucks and automobiles cut into the services once supplied by railroads. Missouri rail lines peaked in 1920 at 8,117 miles. By 2017, there were only 3,862 miles—103 miles less than in 1880. Some short lines became integrated into major lines. Many had their rails pulled and were abandoned to many years later be occasionally repurposed as hiking trails—“Rails to Trails” program.

South Greenfield depots on right; Sanborn Insurance maps of S. Greenfield in 1892 and 1920

The senior Murphy has a poignant recollection: “One of my favorite memories of growing up in Greenfield, MO (population 1,353) was going to see the Frisco local come into Greenfield from the Kansas City-Springfield-Memphis main line at south Greenfield. This would have been about 1941. I would hear the train whistle for the U. S. 160 crossing south of town near the “Southern Club” and immediately would call Grandad, Porter Murphy, to come get me so we could go see the train. “

Murphy goes on to report that even at 4 years old, he knew the track was “in deplorable condition.” Trains didn’t turn out to be the agents of development town leaders and developers imagined but they certainly were a spectacle in the context of the limited entertainments available in these villages.

Railroad tracks in Dade County, south of Greenfield. On the left is the site of an engine derailment about 1940. On the right, a 3.6% grade was too much for an overloaded G&N train. Fortunately, no derailment, just a slow slide back to the depot.

Larry Murphy’s memories of his father and grandfather are woven into his recollection of the railroad: “All of this, my granddad’s interest in taking me to the train, his stories of the old Greenfield& Northern, his interest in my interest in trains, railroads and mining all made for some wonderful memories and the basis for some additional stories.”

Long after these ultimately uneconomic ventures fail, locals remember not only the spectacle of these monster moving pieces of iron, but they recall the individuals who crewed them and manned the depots.  Probably Larry Murphy is not the only citizen who has passed on an affection for railroads long gone. Larry’s son R. King Murphy wrote a short story called “The Ritual” printed in the June 16, 1994, Vedette. Wrote the son: “I have often wished I could have been there with them as the steam-powered mechanical marvels of a bygone era plied the high iron.”

Two pictures of BNSF switching a number of hoppers at Pennington Seed in Greenfield.

A number of first-hand accounts exist of the effect of rail transportation and of course the inevitable and memorable train wrecks. An amazing number of photographs were taken of the old-time trains and Murphy has numerous maps that explain the towns the line connected. The Greenfield & Northern has vanished but is not forgotten as this book shows.

The book is available for $20 postage paid from Larry Murphy (larrymurf37@gmail.com), 2895 Claflin RD., Suite 200, Manhattan, KS 66502. (785-477-0517)

The Murphys are at work on another book on the Kansas City, Clinton, and Springfield railroad.

These intimate local histories are valuable because they preserve not only the raw facts—dates, places, economic implications, but the mythos of our romance with technology. Generously, the Murphys have donated copies to regional libraries.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Lens & Pen Press is having a half price sale for all titles. Visit our store at www.dammingtheosage.com to see the selection. Sale is 50% off original price, postage paid.

Sep 102021
 

Younger’s Bluff at Monegaw, real photo postcard.

 

 

Youngers Lookout is an often-photographed feature of the Monegaw Springs area.

Cole Younger, the last surviving member of the James-Younger Gang, is said to have had his picture taken here in the early 1900s after his release from a Minnesota prison. The attachment of his name to this bluff may date from that event and not the gunfight of 1874 with Pinkerton agents, which occurred some three miles away.

Known as the Rosco Gun Battle, one Younger and two Pinkerton detectives were killed. Two monuments mark the spot along the lonely St. Clair County road where it occurred.

In 1897, Cole Younger, serving life with brother Jim in a Minnesota prison after the disastrous 1876 Northfield bank robbery that finished the James-Younger gang, wrote a sentimental poem:

 

 

‘Tis twenty years and more, Jim

Since we breathed the air of home.

Or gazed upon the hills and vales

We loved to oft to roam . . .

 

One grim old cliff I have in mind

That stands majestic, grand,

While far below the fair Osage

Sweeps o’er her silver sand.

 

There countless names are carved with ours

Where we have stood with awe

And gazed upon its marble face,

Near dear old Monegaw!

Many names of vacationers are carved into the sandstone bluffs along the Osage. We’ve looked, but never found any of the Youngers’ names.

 

From Damming the Osage: The Conflicted Story of Lake of the Ozarks and Truman Reservoir. Lens & Pen Press is having a half price sale for all titles. Damming the Osage is now available on our website at www.dammingtheosage.com for $17.50 (half the original price of $35), postage paid.

Aug 172021
 

Joseph McClurg was governor of Missouri from January 12, 1869 to January 4, 1871.

 

 

 

Joseph W. McClurg and partners grossed half-a-million dollars a year at their Linn Creek Big Store before the Civil War. The well-educated, dapper gentleman was a strong Union supporter. When hostilities erupted, rebels burned his store and warehouses.

After the War, McClurg was elected to Congress three times and governor once. Attempting to revive his store on the river in the 1870s, he found the new railroads made his steamboat-based enterprise obsolete. The soft-spoken, religious, teetotalling McClurg could be considered the most distinguished figure in early Osage valley history. Certainly, he was the only personage in the region photo­graphed by Mathew Brady.

 

 

From Damming the Osage: The Conflicted Story of Lake of the Ozarks and Truman Reservoir. Lens & Pen Press is having a half price sale for all titles. Damming the Osage is now available on our website at www.dammingtheosage.com/buy-the-book/ for $17.50 (half the original price of $35), postage paid.

 

Jul 222021
 

 

This stern-wheeler worked the river below Warsaw delivering farm produce and timber to a rail connection at Osage City, or St. Louis, returning with merchandise. Log books in the collection of the Miller County Museum and Historical Society enumerated its 1904 cargo:

“Here are items the Wells carried that year: 5,337 sacks of wheat, 2 tons hay, 305 head of cattle, 1,439 railroad ties, 445 head sheep, 2,587 hogs, 280 gallons wine and whiskey, 956 cases eggs, 134 coops of poultry, 14,122 pounds produce, 215,122 pounds farm machinery, 8,208 pounds bacon, 961 barrels salt, 16,484 pounds iron, 33 barrels oil, 33 tons coal, 128,403 pounds wire, 41,760 feet oak lumber, 20,000 pounds mill machinery, 123,177 feet pine lumber, 1,852 bunches shingles, 34,4060 pounds sewer pipe, 6 barrels lime, 124 barrels cement, 150 brick, 150,000 pounds clay or chalk, 756 sacks corn in ear, 620 bushels shelled corn and 140 passengers.”

The Miller County Historical Association has an interesting history of early navigation on the rivers on http://www.millercountymuseum.org/rivernav.html

 

From Damming the Osage: The Conflicted Story of Lake of the Ozarks and Truman Reservoir. Lens & Pen Press is having a half price sale for all titles. Damming the Osage is now available on our website at www.dammingtheosage.com for $17.50 (half the original price of $35), postage paid.

 

Jul 142021
 

When the Civil War ended, Billy Griffin mustered out of Gen. Marmaduke’s Confederate forces at Batesville, Arkansas, and returned to the Current River area. There he found the community of Irish scattered. His parents had held on but few others. Billy moved his parents to Ironton, but he returned to the area near Wilderness where he lived the rest of his life. Few of the other original settlers ever returned.

In 1868, Billy married Mary Ann Snider, widow of Samuel Cusic Snider and ten years Billy’s senior. Billy and Mary Ann Snider Griffin had three children, Mary Catherine (b. 1869, married name Mrs. Harvey Smith, of Fremont) and Patrick (b. 1871) and John Ruben (b. 1873). The only reference I’ve seen to the two daughters Mary Ann Snider brought into the marriage is in his obituary: “He is also survived by two step-daughters, Mrs. Cusic Brown of Dry Valley, and Mrs. Sarah Hanners of Rockford, Wash., to whom he was a kind and affectionate father.”

The article about their aging cabin made passing mention of the Irish Wilderness: “The Griffins and their neighbors had to travel many miles to mill with their wheat and corn. They went to the mill at Falling Springs or across the Irish Wilderness to Turner’s Mill on Eleven Point River.”

The article continued: “In 1885, the Frisco railroad built the Current River Branch road to Grandin from Willow Springs (see our post on lumber industry in the Wilderness) and the track ran through the Griffin farm on Pine Creek. The logging industry had come into the Ozarks and saw mills sprang up and the pine forests were stripped from the hills of Carter County around the old house.”

Billy Griffin became the source of knowledge about the early settlement for local historians and the curious. The Current Local newspaper in Van Buren interviewed him. Billy gave a detailed account of how the little settlement was created, their trials and difficulties, joys and romances.

But they were happy, those simple people. Happy and industrious in their wilderness. On the Sabbath they had religious services and the monotony of life in the woods was broken by merry making in their cabins. Into their life there came romances and there came sorrow. The young priest was called on to marry the young and to bury the dead. Faithfully he stood by them, cheerfully he encouraged them.

A few years later the sorrows of the civil war … found its way out into that wilderness and the little crops of those simple people were ruthlessly taken and their livestock driven away by skallawags who took advantage of the deplorable conditions of the time. … And the country that had begun to smile under their industrious efforts once more became a wilderness.

This story was told to the editor of Community a number of years ago by “Uncle Billy” Griffin, a respected citizen of Carter County, the last survivor of those colonists. To the writer it seemed a pathetic story and the pathos was all the greater when Uncle Billy said: ‘We came to America, fleeing from persecutions in Ireland. We came far out into the wilderness to make our homes. It was hard for us to understand why Americans, who had always stood for us as the greatest exponents of justice and chivalry, should have robbed us of our homes and our happiness.’

Billy’s two siblings, Thomas and Catherine, lived in the Pilot Knob area. Julia Billingsley shared that Thomas never married; Catherine married David Gunton and had two children who did not marry so the Griffin line continued through Billy.

Billy Griffin died January 4, 1918 at the Alexian Brothers’ Hospital in St. Louis. Blood poisoning was listed as the cause of death. His obituary in the Van Buren newspaper noted, “For fifty years Mr.Griffin was one of the foremost citizens of this section of the country. … Perhaps no man in this section had more friends than ‘Uncle Bill’ Griffin. … He was an honorable gentleman of strong convictions. … He will be greatly missed.”

Billy, Thomas, Catherine and her children, Emmet and Julia, are buried in Pilot Knob Catholic Cemetery – an unmarked cemetery on Middlebrook Road near Ironton. Elizabeth, Billy’s mother is buried in Middlebrook Cemetery about two miles north.

Lens & Pen Press is having a warehouse sale and offering all titles for half price, postage paid.

Mystery of the Irish Wilderness: Land and Legend of Father John Joseph Hogan’s Lost Irish Colony in the Ozark Wilderness  and On the Mission in Missouri are available on amazon.com or discounted 50 percent on this website, postage paid.

Visit Lens & Pen YouTube channel

Jun 182021
 

One of the great rewards of researching, writing and publishing our books on the Ozarks has been learning more on the subjects from people who are personally connected with them. Such is the case with our two books on John Joseph Hogan and the Irish Wilderness in Oregon and Ripley counties.

We recently received emails from Juliana Billingsley asking for help researching Billy Griffin, her second great grandfather. Billy Griffin was among the original Irish settlers in Father Hogan’s community in the Ozarks just before the Civil War. Hogan mentioned Billy Griffin several times in his memoir, On the Mission in Missouri. We found Patrick Griffin’s name (Billy’s father) in correspondence with land agents and on deeds to land in the area we identified as areas of the settlement during research for Mystery of the Irish Wilderness.

Conversations with Juliana Billingsley and review of newspaper articles provided additional details on how Billy Griffin and his family came to Father Hogan’s settlement.

June 24, 1843, William (Billy) Griffin was born to Patrick and Elizabeth Delaney Griffin, in Newcastle, West Limerick, Ireland. He was the middle of three children, with older brother Thomas (b. 1838, d. 1914) and younger sister, Katherine (b. 1848, d. 1923).

In 1852, the family emigrated to America. Billy was about 9 years old. According to a substantial obituary in the Van Buren newspaper, the family was in Boston first, then Zanesville, Ohio, then Carondelet, Missouri (near St. Louis). No specific dates known for these different locations.

In 1857, the young Irish priest, John Joseph Hogan was exploring northern Missouri, looking for pioneering Catholics, when he met the railroad contractors, Griffin and Shea. They were from Madison, Indiana, which is on the Ohio River.

The following is pure speculation on my part: Consider that river travel was a major transportation method for settlers moving west in the first half of the 19th century, when railroads were just pushing into the interior of the country. Zanesville, Ohio is on the Muskingum River, which feeds into the Ohio River, a major watery thoroughfare to the West. Follow the Ohio west from Marietta, float past Huntington, West Virginia and Cincinnati, Ohio and the next stop is Madison, Indiana. From there the Ohio is a good conduit to the Mississippi and St. Louis for a family moving west. It is plausible that Griffin (Patrick and/or Billy) connected with Shea there in Madison and got a job, which took him to the prairies of north Missouri and a chance encounter with a traveling priest,

When Hogan visited the railroad camp near Breckenridge in Caldwell County, west of Chillicothe, Billy Griffin would have been about 14 years old. Perhaps he was there with his family. Some families were with the railroad contractors as Hogan noted baptizing two children.

“Returning eastward I stopped for the night near where Breckenridge now is, at a place then called Garryowen—the camp of Griffin and Shea—railroad contractors from Madison, Indiana, who with a band of good sober men were at work on the grade of the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad. There, on the evening of August 12th, I baptized two children of the pious edifying railroad community. Garryowen and Billy Griffin had so many attractions for me, and were so intimately associated, in name at least, with places and persons dear to me since childhood, that I stayed there, though aside from the purpose of my journey, a day and night longer.”

 On the Mission, page 40

Imagine the nostalgic conversations around the evening fire as they shared memories of County Limerick and the Irish city of Garryowen .

Then a year later (1858), we find Patrick Griffin’s name listed in a report from the Land Agent, saying the acreage he had paid on was already sold to another:

“JACKSON, Mo., APRIL 30, 1858. I find from examination that the following tracts, applied for by you, have been sold, to-wit; application of James Murray, North West 1/4, and lot I North East 1/4, Section 6; application of Denis Sullivan, South West 1/4, Section 21; application of Denis Hurley, South West 1/4 Section 24, application of Thomas Mulvehille, South East 1/4, Section 22; application of Michael Mara, North 1/2, Section 22; application of Stephen McNamara, West 1/2, Section 23; application of Patrick Griffin, South 1/2 of North East 1/4, Section 36; application of Patrick Rowe, North West 1/4, Section 30. All these have been sold to others. Very respectfully, G. W. FERGUSON.”

On the Mission, page 64

The Iron Mountain Railroad, which would run from St. Louis to Texarkana, Arkansas, was under construction then, a possible source of employment for the Griffins. Billy was 15 by that time. In Mystery of the Irish Wilderness, we listed Billy’s father, Patrick Griffin, as a likely settler in Ripley County.

When the War came with its violent disruptions and savage ebb and flow of forces, Billy Griffin joined the Confederate Army, which would not have sat well with Father Hogan.  But wars make decisions for individuals.

Lens & Pen Press is having a warehouse sale and offering all titles for half price, postage paid.

Mystery of the Irish Wilderness: Land and Legend of Father John Joseph Hogan’s Lost Irish Colony in the Ozark Wilderness  and On the Mission in Missouri are available on amazon.com or discounted 50 percent on this website, postage paid.

Visit Lens & Pen YouTube channel

Jun 112021
 

Steamboat J. R. Wells at Linn Creek, late 1800s

A few steamboats still operated on the lower Osage River in the late-nineteenth and early-twentieth centuries. Sometimes they carried excursion parties instead of cargo. Before the Civil War, “daring, reckless and adventurous men” ran far upstream in high water to sup­ply frontier settlements with necessities, returning to St. Louis with barrels of mast-fed hog hams, deer skins, and furs.

Built at Tuscumbia by Anchor Milling Company in 1897, the J.R. Wells steamboat was 110 feet long, with a 20-foot beam. With its barge, the Ida, also built by Anchor Milling, the Wells worked up and down the Osage for a couple of decades.

In 1919, the Wells was sold to a Missouri River operator. In 1920, it was crushed by ice floes and sank at Pelican Bend near St. Charles, Missouri.

 

From Damming the Osage: The Conflicted Story of Lake of the Ozarks and Truman Reservoir. Lens & Pen Press is having a half price sale for all titles. Damming the Osage is now available on our website at www.dammingtheosage.com for $17.50 (half the original price of $35), postage paid.

May 242021
 

Google alerts brought this story from 92.1 News in Butler Missouri: Papinville History: Harmony Mission Week Two   … And it brought memories… it brought memories of a perfect early autumn day in 2012 when Leland and I attended the Harmony Mission Days at Papinville, Missouri. Our book Damming the Osage: The Conflicted Story of Lake of the Ozarks and Truman Reservoir  had recently arrived from the printer and we brought a box to donate to the Museum and Historical Society for fund-raising efforts.

In 1820, the Osages asked President Monroe to send them missionaries. Harmony Mission was established six miles up the Marais des Cygnes. In the interests of acculturation, the federal government subsidized this outreach by the United Foreign Missionary Society. While some Indian children were schooled, no adults were converted. The mission closed shortly after the Treaty of 1825.

From Damming the Osage, page 36

This year–200 years after the mission was established, Harmony Mission Day will be June 12 at the Papinville Museum. To make reservations for the wagon ride to Harmony Mission call 417-395-2594 or 417-395- 4288. If there is no answer, please leave a message with your name and number. Times for the wagon rides are 10:00, 1:00 and 3:00.

Lens & Pen Press is having a half-price sale for all titles. Damming the Osage is now available on our website at www.dammingtheosage.com for $17.50 (half the original price of $35), postage paid.