May 172020
 

Nikola Tesla, whose spark of genius helped harness the power of Niagara Fall, now overlooks his roaring, liquid engine.

May 17 – Only two years ago today, we were in Niagara Falls (Canada side)—on a photo safari for our then-upcoming, now-published book, Lover’s Leap Legends: From Sappho of Lesbos to Wah-Wah-Tee of Waco. My “Trip Notes” comment for that day: “Up early and over to Canada to shoot Nikola Tesla statue on Table Rock.” That’s Leland’s version of “early” …. i.e. up before sunrise to be in place when the light of the rising sun best defines the subject…. But I digress.

We had come to investigate the two similar, but different, legends of the Falls and wound up with an entire chapter examining the “Legend of the White Canoe, aka Maid of the Mist.” With the rich graphics associated with generations of travel to the legendary Falls and the complexity of the legend adapting to evolving social attitudes, it became its own full chapter in the book.

One of the great advantages of these research trips is learning so much beyond your stated subject. The Falls has a fascinating history of Indian presence, explorer accounts, pop culture iconography and industrial exploitation. We documented some of that as we explored:

Few of the scientific geniuses that unlocked the secrets of nature have the hero status they once enjoyed. An exception is Nikola Tesla who, though a brilliant electrical engineer, was New Age before the term was coined. His discoveries or improvements to existing technologies were impressive, but his alluding to death rays and limitless free electricity along with his dalliances in the paranormal and belief in extraterrestrials has struck a chord with contemporary fans.

Tesla has bronze memorial statues on both the American and Canadian sides of the Falls.

May 062020
 

Real photo postcard of some faculty of the School of the Ozarks on a 1909 outing at Swan Creek.

Along with Harold Bell Wright’s moralistic Shepherd of the Hills influence, a component of the region’s image has been the School of the Ozarks, now called College of the Ozarks (“Hard Work U.”). It began as an effort by the Presbyterian Church to expand the limited educational opportunities for Ozark children in the early 1900s. A $20,000 brick building was built on a hill overlooking Swan Creek. A fire destroyed it in 1915. The school used the facilities of the Forsyth Public School for a time until a campus was started at Point Lookout in Hollister where the College is today.

The Christian ethical influence of Harold Bell Wright and College of the Ozarks is in sharp contrast with the more secular origins of another Ozark tourist draw, Lake of the Ozarks. Two of the three men most influential in the creation of Bagnell Dam and the Lake did time in federal penitentiaries.


Lens & Pen books are available for purchase on this website on amazon.com and at Barnes & Noble. See sample pages from our new book, Lover’s Leap Legends: From Sappho of Lesbos to Wah-Wah-Tee of Waco, on our website: hypercommon.com

Apr 262020
 

The Springfield News-Leader ran an intriguing article on paddlefish going over dams and surviving. Sadly, it didn’t mention that most are killed whether they go through the turbines or over the top in a flood. It’s common to see pieces of paddlefish below dams after they were sucked into turbines and chewed up. Our guess is one out of hundreds survive.

But it’s heartening to know that this incredible, giant prehistoric fish occasionally gets lucky. Corps of Engineers’ dams have contributed to their conceivably endangered future. While the adults thrive in reservoir pools, damming blocks access to their spawning grounds.

In our book, Damming the Osage: The Conflicted Story of Lake of the Ozarks and Truman Reservoir, the fate of the paddlefish occupies many pages. Truman Dam destroyed the best spawning grounds in the country. All the paddlefish in Missouri are hatchery-spawned and raised. We quoted a publication by the American Fisheries Society entitled, “The Paddlefish: Status, Management and Propagation” (1986):

Finally, a note of caution. Although techniques for producing and stocking paddlefish were presented in this symposium, we do not consider stocking to be an answer to habitat deterioration and management problems. These techniques were developed for special circumstances where stocking was the only way to maintain a population. Artificial propagation and stocking should not be used as a cure-all or substitute for wise or practical management. Trying to solve problems by treating symptoms is expensive and ineffective. In addition, stocking would affect the integrity of paddlefish gene pools and is ill-advised until we know a lot more about the genetics of this species.

The MICRA paddlefish-sturgeon committee issued a warning in 1998 that “the use of hatcheries to reduce population declines is not a substitute for solving the causes of declines.” In addition to genetic considerations, the paper listed six other problems with stocking,hatche of which “delaying habitat restoration” was the worst.

page 236, Damming the Osage

The Department of Conservation fisheries people are to be praised for keeping the paddlefish from vanishing from Missouri waters. It’s an expensive program and should there be a severe recession raising paddlefish might be defunded. MDC gets most of its money from a conservation sales tax. This largely bypasses political control. Some politicians wish to do away with this arrangement. It’s likely, should the state legislature control the MDC budget, urban interests might not be favorably disposed to maintaining the paddlefish-raising program. Paddlefish might be seen as expendable.

The fate of the paddlefish (or spoonbill) was central to a lawsuit to stop Truman Dam—which obviously failed. Our 304-page book, Damming the Osage, is available on amazon.com or this website at a discount, postage paid

Apr 082020
 

Real photo postcard circa 1910 by G. E. Hall. Captioned on front, “At the Deer Lick, 33 Hall Photo Co.” Deer Lick is a location in the novel, The Shepherd of the Hills.

Printed on back of this very early Hall postcard is “The Shepherd of the Hills series,” Made by G. E. Hall, Notch, Mo.” At that time the entire region from Galena to Branson and surrounding hills and river bottoms of Taney and Stone counties was known as the Shepherd of the Hills Country.

In his just-published Volume 2, A History of the Ozarks, The Conflicted Ozarks, Brooks Blevins gives credit to Harold Bell Wright’s 1907 novel, The Shepherd of the Hills, for fixing an image of the Ozarks as a homeland of dramatically primitive but appealing Americans. Blevins attended a performance of the Shepherd of the Hills outdoor theater near Branson in 2013: “It wasn’t Chekov; no one goes to the ‘Shepherd of the Hills’ thinking it’s going to be. But it was entertaining—and melodramatic, syrupy, platitudinous, and predictable, just like the beloved novel on which it as based.” Blevins goes on to point out some real history about the truly dramatic night-riding Baldknobbers is worked into the sentimental storyline.

Locals began representing themselves as the real characters in Wright’s book. Photographic images of them at the landmarks where the novel took place helped perpetuate the idea the region was populated with somewhat backward but appealing characters, whose lives were uncommonly dramatic.


Lens & Pen books are available for purchase on this website on amazon.com and at Barnes & Noble. See sample pages from our new book, Lover’s Leap Legends: From Sappho of Lesbos to Wah-Wah-Tee of Waco, on our website: hypercommon.com

 

Mar 112020
 

Powersite Dam, 1920s postcard. White River Art Station.

Real photo postcards were produced one at a time, usually by the photographer himself, which made them ideal for small regional markets; it also means they are less common today on the collector’s market. As Ozark tourism grew, entrepreneurs turned to producing printed postcards, which could be printed in large runs. After A.K. Bishop, an early producer of real photo postcards, died in 1925, his widow, Mrs. Grace Bishop, continued in the picture-postcard business. Her stock and trade were mechanically reproduced postcards. A photograph was hand-colored then reproduced as a lithograph to be printed by the thousands. Mrs. Bishop operated a store in Branson, the White River Art Station, and labeled her postcards with that name.

When a large flood inundated Branson in 1927 an article in the Stone County News Oracle (April 27), Galena, gave an indication of the scale of the printed postcard business. The article noted she had not suffered as much damage: “Possibly one who suffered the least in the form of ruined stock was Mrs. Grace Bishop of the White River Art Station.” She had placed her stock on high shelves and was able to enter the studio in a rowboat and retrieve her stock: “Mrs. Bishop says she has a hundred thousand picture cards on hand and two hundred thousand ordered. She is ready for summer any day she wants to come.”

An abundance of White River Art Station printed postcards are for sale on eBay and through postcard dealers throughout America for a few dollars. George Hall’s real photo postcards, however, are rarely for sale and can bring $60 to $200.

 

Lens & Pen books are available for purchase on this website on amazon.com and at Barnes & Noble. See sample pages from our new book, Lover’s Leap Legends: From Sappho of Lesbos to Wah-Wah-Tee of Waco, on our website: hypercommon.com

Feb 202020
 

Photographic print, 7” x 12” Unmarked but unmistakably Redings Mill.

There were actually two smaller early mills on Shoal Creek south of Joplin but the third mill was an impressive, multi-story structure of stone, burr and white oak, built in 1868 by John S. Reding. It burned on November 8, 1936, but its visual and historic influence survives. Before its demise, it was considered the most photographed structure in Southwest Missouri. There are many snapshots as well as postcards and professional photographs. This image is phenomenally detailed. Two women looking at boats below the dam give scale to the commanding building.

In the 1920s an extensive entertainment destination was developed, a resort with a swimming pool, golf course, and a hotel with a dining room to seat 150. A dance “palace” and casino opened in 1928. Of course, soon after, the Depression affected business. Two major fires hit the resort, one in 1932 and one in 1936 destroying the dance hall. The foreclosure sale in 1941 marked its official end.

Today, there is a village entity called Redings Mill, which is part of the Joplin area. Restaurants and services still attach Redings Mill to their name. Watermills were central to pioneer communities both economically and socially. That imprint is still alive today.


Lens & Pen books are available for purchase on this website on amazon.com and at Barnes & Noble. See sample pages from our new book, Lover’s Leap Legends: From Sappho of Lesbos to Wah-Wah-Tee of Waco, on our website: hypercommon.com

Feb 112020
 

Printed on back: “Views of White River Dam, Camp Ozark, by A. K. Bishop, Forsyth, Mo.” Written in pencil, “Taneycomo Dam, Ozarks, June–1912.” Real photo postcard.

Powersite Dam, originally called White River Dam, was built by the Ambursen Hydraulic Construction Company of Boston. It is a hollow cement-slab and buttress structure. As we wrote in James Fork of the White, “Powersite Dam was not architecturally blatantly industrial. The narrow, twenty mile-long lake it created became regarded as part of nature, indistinguishable from the free-flowing river it replaced.”

The dapper gents in the photo seem to find something hilarious about “Three toots of whistle means blasting.” Numerous similar real photo postcards were taken of the activities connected with building the dam; some large albums exist that have been put together from them. Allen Kitchel (A.K.) Bishop died in 1925, but his wife, Grace May (Lefler) Bishop, continued their postcard business in Branson under the name of the White River Art Company, selling primarily hand-tinted, colored views printed lithographically.

The construction phase brought in cash to the local economy and afterward boosted Branson and Hollister tourism. A village of shacks was constructed to house and service workers. Later Corps of Engineers’ dams took massive amounts of farmland and were more controversial.

 

Lens & Pen books are available on this website on amazon.com and at Barnes & Noble. Our most recent book is James Fork of the White: Transformation of an Ozark River.

See sample pages from our forthcoming book, Lover’s Leap Legends: From Sappho of Lesbos to Wah-Wah-Tee of Waco, on our website: hypercommon.com Available in February.

 

 

Jan 132020
 

White River Dam, real photo postcard, Hall Photo Co., circa 1916

The first hydroelectric dam in the Ozarks was simply called the “White River Dam.” Soon after, the name was changed to Powersite Dam. A March 12, 1913 article in the Springfield Republican reported the Branson Club, a local business organization decided the name “Taneycomo” (derived from its location in Taney County Missouri) would attract tourists. They even compared the twenty-mile lake created by the run-of-the-river dam to Lake Como in the Swiss Alps.

Dam building on the White River was started in 1911 by St. Louis investors organized as the Ozark Power and Water Company. Henry L. Doherty and his gigantic Cities Service combine acquired it when the backers encountered financial difficulties. His utilities in southwest Missouri were branded Empire District Electric.

George Hall was an innovative photographer. A vertical, rather than horizontal, image with a small figure in the right-hand corner is a remarkable composition. His portrait of early tourism in the Branson/Galena area, aka Shepherd of the Hills Country, is unequaled. Over a couple of decades, he photographed politicians and local folks, important events and daily life, characters of legend and local fame—tourist sites and daily life. He printed postcards from his photographs and sold them locally. Real photo postcards are printed on sensitized photo postcard paper from the original negative of a large, roll film camera, creating a super sharp image.

 

Lens & Pen books are available on this website on amazon.com and at Barnes & Noble. Our most recent book is James Fork of the White: Transformation of an Ozark River.

See sample pages from our  forthcoming book, Lover’s Leap Legends: From Sappho of Lesbos to Wah-Wah-Tee of Waco, on our website: hypercommon.com Available in February.

Dec 272019
 

Probably like a lot of others, when Kaitlyn McConnell’s Passport to the Ozarks arrived, I immediately checked to see if some of my ‘memorable places’ had made the cut. Lo and behold – Windyville is having something of a (small) revival. The store has been reinvigorated – 15 cent bologna sandwiches! And who knew the tiny village was a hotbed of paranormal interest – it’s haunted. Turn the page and here was the Y Bridge in Galena. a beauty of a structure, graceful, elegant and historic. Kaitlyn gives the significant details.

For years as we’ve prowled the region for research or gathering photos for our own projects, we’ve seen properties in decline and hoped for their restoration. Several of those stories – Greenfield Opera House, the Boots Motel, are told, with photographs of them in their refurbished glory.

Passports open doors to far away, exotic places and unusual experiences. With Kaitlyn’s “Passport”, we rediscover the place we thought we knew. Visitors to the area will hit the standard highlights, but this Passport will take them to some off the beaten track places and events (like the Oldfield Opry, McClurg Jam or Lamar’s Movie scene – how long has it been since you’ve been to a drive-in movie?) that will enliven, educate, and entertain. And to help you sate your appetite, Kaitlyn discovers restaurant specialties to defy your Fitbit’s rules.

Photographs are crisp and well framed. The text is concise, readable and so informative. Every location (61 in all) has its own story, photographs, and contact information. Passport to the Ozarks is available on the Ozarks Alive website: https://www.ozarksalive.com/product/passport-to-the-ozarks/

Books may also be purchased by sending a check to Ozarks Alive at P.O. Box 2004, Springfield, MO 65801.

The book is available for purchase at Cooky’s Cafe in Golden City, the Douglas County Herald in Ava and the Webster County Citizen in Seymour.

Dec 102019
 

The Dalton family has been prominent in Missouri history. In 1925, they gathered in front of Arnhold’s Mill, a favorite family vacation destination. Photo courtesy of Mary Anderson.

Sidna Poague Dalton, second from right, became a Missouri Supreme Court justice (1950-1965). He was also an amateur archaeologist who discovered a transitional Paleo-Indian projectile point, which is named for him (the Dalton Point). His wife Edna is on the back row; three of their four kids are also in the picture: Ruth Rusk Anderson, aka “Rusk”, Jane Dalton Hess and Jim Dalton. Sidna’s brother Sam, far left, owned Dalton Coal and Concrete. Lelia, their sister, married George Denman. Their sons, John and Jim, are in the front row. Jim went on to be Mayor of Nevada, Missouri – much later in life of course.

Before Bagnell Dam created Lake of the Ozarks, there were few tourist attractions in this region. Arnhold’s Mill was a commercial mill site certainly, but also an early fishing camp/resort on the Niangua River in Camden County not far from Ha Ha Tonka’s springs. In 1896, J. W. (Joshua Williams) Vincent, editor of the Linn Creek Reveille, published a history of Camden County he had compiled by interviewing early settlers. In it he stated: “The Arnhold Mill, probably the most noted in the county, was founded in 1833 by a man named Kieth.”

George and Dorotha Arnhold, German immigrants, bought what by then was called Cleman Mill in 1878. Its scenic location, abundant game, good fishing and congenial owners attracted sportsmen from across the state. Eventually, cabins were built on the nearby hills to accommodate visitors who showed up in season. It was a family-friendly resort as evidenced by the Dalton family photo posed in front of the mill.

Ruth Rusk Anderson was Mary Anderson’s Grandma. She was 6 years old in 1925, when this photo was taken. She told Mary about “a fishing camp she went to as a child that she loved, and the heartache she felt when it flooded.” Arnhold’s Mill was covered by the backed-up waters of the Osage when Bagnell Dam closed.

Mary Anderson sent us these photos of the family vacation at Arnhold’s Mill in the 1925. She has scanned and made available to family members a horde of family snapshots. The Dalton and Poague families are prominent in Missouri history and this greatly adds to the genealogical archives of the family.

 

 

 

 

Damming the Osage and all Lens & Pen books are available on this website, on amazon.com and at Barnes & Noble.